Cities with an edge: Kisir, Turkish taboulie




Beginning in the 1950s, many major cities experienced a  migration from the urban core into the suburbs—greener pastures, less traffic, and better schools. Lost in that migration were subtle values including a sense of place, the underlying foundation of an established history, and unique locally-owned businesses. The 2010 census reported a not-so-subtle move away from the suburbs back into the city. The twenty/thirty somethings want more bustle, convenient mass transit, and ethnic restaurants. The not-so-youngs want easy access to the theatre, museums, music events, and health care.

When Bob and I travel, we notice a sameness in the outer edges of any city. The landscape looks the same five miles outside Albuquerque, Duluth, Sacramento, Cedar Rapids, or Brainerd. There's a mall, usually called "West" something, with the big box stores found everywhere in the country.

Brainerd, population 13,678, sprawls into the Minnesota flatlands and Baxter, the region's "retail center" and main area of real estate development. The nondescript edges of Brainerd/Baxter extend at least five miles from the center of original Brianerd. Most locals shop at Penny's, Target or Home Depot in Baxter, eat at KFC, Taco Bell, or Subway, buy groceries at the Baxter WalMart, see a movie at Baxter's Village 8, and get a haircut at the Baxter Cost Cutter.
 
I couldn't find any sense of place until I spent an afternoon running errands in old downtown Brianerd. I needed some squirty hair stuff, Mrs. Meyer's hand soap, ingredients for granola, and a quilter's ruler. Google quickly found a source for all my needs and Garmine obliged with the addresses of "Crow Wing Co-op", "Hair & Beyond", and "Colorz for Quilts", all within six blocks.

Crow Wing Co-op had Mrs. Meyer's products, turmeric, Berber spice mix, organic tofu, and locally smoked salmon. "Jessie", a recent transplant from Duluth, chatted me up, rang up my goods, and cheerfully posed for a picture. Born and raised here, she is conflicted about being back home in her old family house. Misses the "big city", the like souls she left there, and the "interesting eating opportunities." She directed me to my next stop for squirty hair stuff.

Manning the front desk at Hair & Beyond was Dave, the shop owner's husband, who said he was "recently out-of-work and currently out of place" but with wife Kari's help, he quickly found not only product but an appointment for shaggy Bob later in the day. Dave is a Los Angeles transplant and when asked, "Why the move? " said, "A momentary lapse in judgment."

On to Colorz for Quilts where I found just what I needed. Marlene, the shop owner, recently had thumb surgery and has yet to return to hand quilting. She has such a brisk business in machine quilting, however, that she hired her sister-in-law Dorothy to help out. They've never been happier although Dorothy's husband wants her to start making supper again.

So a sense of place was there all along: local stories, authentic people, quality products. I just had to get out of the Mall and into downtown.

Jessie, from Crow Wing Co-op



Crow Wing Co-op



Sign around the corner of "Hair & Beyond"



Playground at Whittier Elementary



Parking lot at Walgreens



Kisir (Turkish taboulie)


  •  1 ½ cups bulgur wheat (fine or medium grade)
  • 1 ½ cups boiling water
  •  2 tablespoons red pepper paste
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 tablespoon pomegranate paste or syrup
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 bunch green onions, chopped or ¼ cup finely dice red onion
  • 1 cucumber chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, seeded and chopped
  • 1 tablespoon fresh dill
  • 2 tablespoons parsley
  • 1-2 teaspoons Berber spice mix (recipe below)
  • 2 teaspoons sumak
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • juice from 1 lemon
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • ½ tsp. chile flakes (better taste first before adding)
  • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped and served on side

Cover bulgur and salt with boiling water, let sit for 15 minutes. Drain bulgur from water (easiest to squeeze out a handful at a time) or place on towel and squeeze out excess water. Combine with red pepper paste, tomato paste, pomegranate paste, and mix well.

Add green onions, chopped onions, cucumber, diced red pepper, dill, parsley, spice mix, sumak, paprika, lemon juice, and olive oil. Taste to adjust flavors—more lemon juice if necessary (Kısır should be a little bit tart) salt, chile flakes, or olive oil.

Cover and refrigerate a few hours before serving. Serve with romaine lettuce leaves, and fresh pita bread.

Serve tomatoes on the side.


Berbere Spice Mix

  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 2 whole cloves
  • 3/4 teaspoon cardamom seeds  
  • 1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns  
  • 1/4 teaspoon allspice whole
  • 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds  
  • 1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds  
  • 10 small dried red chiles  
  • 1/2 teaspoon ginger grated
  • 1/4 teaspoon turmeric  
  • 1 teaspoon salt  
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons Hungarian paprika  
  • 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon  
  • 1/8 teaspoon cloves ground
In a small frying pan, on a low heat, toast cumin, cloves, cardamom, peppercorns, allspice, fenugreek and coriander for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Remove from heat and cool for 5 minutes.

Discard stems from chilies. In a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle, finely grind together the toasted spices and chilies.

Mix in remaining ingredients. Store in refrigerator in a well sealed jar.



 

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