A sense of place: Cioppino


Cioppino reminds me of Dinah Shore—apparently, long ago a connection hooked itself into my neurons and won't let go. Cioppino is linked to San Francisco and Fisherman's Wharf. The word itself conjures up cable cars, the briny deep, Ghirardelli Square, and Tadich's Grill. Why this part Italian, part French, Mediterranean fish stew is so familiar to this South Dakota-born, Northwestern girl is hard to know. 

For me, the best of places are heavy with authenticity—New Orleans, New York, Beaufort SC, and Micanopy, Florida. Los Angeles is packed with details specific to one spot: East LA, Bev Hills, Laurel Canyon, Pico Boulevard, the Hollywood Hills. Forks WA used to be authentic, but now carries the burden of the Twilight series. Las Vegas may have authenticity hidden in the sleazier corners of the city but Celine Dion and a million Elvises do not ring true in my book. 

Gertrude Stein once returned to her birthplace, Oakland CA, looking for her house, her neighborhood, and her school but  found that nothing remained. Thus her quote: "There is no there, there." Chrissie Hynde's "My City Was Gone" is about the disappearance of Akron OH's soul. So many places loose their "there". Lake Superior and the Northern woods emphatically give Duluth a sense of place. Ice houses, smoked fish, an accordion museum, and Norwegian delis reflect a strong culture. But Brainerd/Baxter—not so much.

When we were in Los Angeles and Duluth I could, at any time, walk out the door and find something unusual. I just don't feel that here. Instead of LA's Central Market or Duluth's Mount Royal Foods, there's a WalMart down the block. Subways fill in for Duluth's Northern Waters Smokehaus and Takk for Matten. Taco Bell replaces LA's Pupuseria Con Sabor and local taco trucks. We don't make copies at Duluth's Paper Hog anymore, instead it's off to OfficeMax at the mall. I did read, however, that there is a Tuesday night fish fry at the Legion Hall. So who knows?

Anyways, what could be better than to make cioppino in the "Heartland?" We'll substitute walleye for seabass, crappies for mackerel, sturgeon for tuna, but what about mussels? I'm stumped there.


Cioppino

  • Olive oil
  • 1 onion—coarsely diced
  • 1 bulb fennel—thinly julienned
  • Reserve feathery fennel leaves for garnish
  • 1 Tbs. minced garlic
  • 2 tsp. fennel seeds
  • ½ tsp. red chili flakes
  • 1 tsp. dried oregano
  • 1 tsp. dried basil
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 can diced in juice tomatoes
  • ½ small can tomato sauce
  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • 1 small bottle clam broth
  • 1 Tbs. minced anchovy or mackerel
  • 1 lb. mussels
  • ½-1 lb. meaty fish—tuna, swordfish, shark
  • ½-1 lb. flaky fish—seabass, snapper, cod, halibut
  • ½ -1 lb. peeled shrimp

Heat the olive oil in a large pot, then sauté the onion, garlic, and herbs over medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook down for a minute or two, then add the tomato sauce, and chicken broth. Salt and pepper to taste, cover, and let simmer for 30 minutes.

Add clam juice, anchovy, fish, and shrimp. Simmer covered 5-10 min or until fish is done. Garnish with fennel leaves and Parmesan cheese.

Downtown Brainerd



Paul Bunyan  and Babe the blue ox are big here.






St. Patrick's Day is celebrated everywhere.




A possibility.



Posted by Marla Nichols at 2/24/2011 6:58 AM
Categories: Seafood, Entrees, Stew
Tags: Brainerd cioppiono Gertrude Stein Chrissie Hynde authenticity Dinah Shore Paul Bunyan
 

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