Cowboy food: Hanger steaks, Cowboy Sauce & Crack Pie




Our twenty second annual Return to the Light party was canceled but I had food in the freezer, party favors from South Dakota, clever invitations, and a killer dessert. What to do?—cook anyway. Bob came home from the frozen North and we had a family weekend. Saturday afternoon Bob's brothers Tom and Norm, Tom's wife Ali, and son Nick came for steak and beans. Sunday, my sister Ginny and husband Ron brought onion soup and were punished by the Seahawks for their efforts.

A couple years ago I started reading about hanger steak, sometimes called a hanging tender or butcher's steak, and known in a French bistro as an onglet This flat, thick piece of meat hangs between the rib and the loin and shares a skirt steak's beefy, full meat flavor. Seemed just the thing for our January party theme—a chuck-wagon supper featuring cowboy food. Overcooked hanger steaks can be as tough as an old cowboy, but they're hard to beat when served rare. They play well with a marinade and love a good red wine/shallot sauce. 
I skipped the shallots and went with "grilled hanger steaks and cowboy sauce". 

Hanger steaks can be hard to find—I struck out at the Stadium Thriftway, Tacoma Boys, and the Metropolitan Market on Proctor. Dave's on 21st is my go-to-guy for all things meaty and sure enough, he didn't disappoint. Last summer when I first read about hanger steaks, I asked Derrick (at Dave's) about them and he gave me two! So when I needed seven, he was my first stop. I grilled four at a time, six minutes total, two minutes per each three side. We use a less-than-hearty electric grill, so I might even go for five minutes on a robust charcoal or wood-burning grill. Don't forget to let the steaks rest for at least five to ten minutes before slicing.

Below is my party menu, hanger steak w/shallots, Cowboy Sauce, David Chang's recipe for Crack Pie, and my recipe for beans and greens. It may seem an odd combination—David Chang and cowboy food but I had to find some way to try the Crack Pie recipe. The Cowboy Sauce is delicious and could be served with any grilled meat. And the Crack Pie—-oh my!

Chuckwagon Specials:

Spicy chicken wings

Chicharonnes

Butternut squash soup with fried sage

Iceberg lettuce with Ranch dressing

Hangar steak with cowboy sauce.

Garlic mashed potatoes

Smoked ham and collards

Crack Pie

Cowboys, leave your horses outside and don't throw the rolls.


















Hanger Steaks with caramelized shallots

  • 1 Tbsp oil
  •  4 hanger steaks, 6-8 ounces each (trimmed of main gristle running through center)
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
  • 6 medium shallots, thinly sliced
  • 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 cup red wine
  •  2 Tbsp finely chopped Italian parsley

Heat oil in a large heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan over high heat. Pat the steaks dry with a paper towel and season them with salt and pepper. When the pan is hot, place the steaks into the pan, and brown them on all sides. (Do not move the steak pieces until they have browned on one side, if you move them, they won't brown easily.) Continue to turn them until they are cooked to your preference, 6 minutes total for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a warm dish and cover them with foil and let them rest while you prepare the sauce.

Reduce the heat to medium, add a tablespoon of butter and the shallots. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and cook until it boils away, then add the wine. Bring the wine to a boil and let reduce to about half. Remove pan from heat, stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter and the chopped parsley.

To serve, cut each steak against the grain into thin slices. Fan the slices out on a warm dinner plate. Drizzle the warm shallot sauce over the meat and serve immediately.

Marinade for Hanger Steak

  • 2 cups apple juice
  • ½ cup light soy sauce
  • ½ yellow onion, thinly sliced
  • 5 to 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tsp salt
  •   Four ounce hanger, strip or flap meat steaks.

Make the marinade: Combine the apple juice, soy, onion, garlic, sesame oil, and pepper in a large freezer bag (or another container that will snugly accommodate the steaks and marinade) and seal and shake (or stir or whisk) to combine. Add the steaks, seal or cover tightly, and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Remove the steaks from the marinade (discard the marinade). Grill for 6 to 10 minutes total for medium-rare, taking care to first char the two flattest sides of the steaks, which should take about 2 minutes per side. Monitor the doneness closely after that—depending on how hot your fire is, they could be cooked in 6 to 7 minutes. When they're ready, remove the steaks to a platter and let them rest for at least 10 minutes.

Cowboy Sauce

  • 5 tomatoes
  • 1 dried ancho chile
  • 1 Tbs. chipotle chile
  • ¼ c. butter
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 T. minced garlic
  • ¼ c. red wine vinegar
  • 1 c. chicken stock
  • heavy cream
  • 2 T. chopped fresh oregano
  • 1 T. chopped fresh thyme

Char tomatoes under broiler or on grill until skin begins to blacken. Chop coarsely. Toast chile over burner or in heavy skillet until skin darkens. Remove seeds. 

Sauté onion and garlic in 2 T. butter. Add vinegar and boil until liquids are reduced by half—five minutes. Add charred, chopped tomatoes, chilies and stock. Simmer until sauce thickens—15 minutes. 

Puree in blender until almost smooth. Return to pan, add heavy cream and reduce.

Add fresh chopped herbs.

Now is the time to get out those hanger or T-bone steaks. Season with salt and black pepper and grill—rare-medium rare. Bring cowboy sauce to simmer, whisk in 2 T. cold butter

Serve with garlic mashed potatoes.

Momofuku's Crack Pie

Servings: Makes 2 pies (6 to 8 servings each)

Note: Adapted from Momofuku. This pie calls for 2 (10-inch) pie tins. You can substitute 9-inch pie tins, but note that the pies will require additional baking time, about 5 minutes, due to the increased thickness of the filling.

Cookie for crust

  • 2/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (3 ounces) flour
  • Scant 1/8 teaspoon baking powder
  • Scant 1/8 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) softened butter
  • 1/3 cup (2 1/2 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 3 tablespoons (1 1/4 ounces) sugar
  • 1 egg
  • Scant 1 cup (3 1/2 ounces) rolled oats

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl using an electric mixer, beat the butter, brown sugar and sugar until light and fluffy.

4. Whisk the egg into the butter mixture until fully incorporated.

5. With the mixer running, beat in the flour mixture, a little at a time, until fully combined. Stir in the oats until incorporated.

6. Spread the mixture onto a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking sheet and bake until golden brown and set, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and cool to the touch on a rack. Crumble the cooled cookie to use in the crust.

Crust

  • Crumbled cookie for crust
  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons (3/4 ounce) brown sugar
  • 1/8 teaspoon salt

Combine the crumbled cookie, butter, brown sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse until evenly combined and blended (a little of the mixture clumped between your fingers should hold together). Divide the crust between 2 (10-inch) pie tins. Press the crust into each shell to form a thin, even layer along the bottom and sides of the tins. Set the prepared crusts aside while you prepare the filling.

Filling

  • 1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces) sugar
  • 3/4 cup plus a scant 3 tablespoons (7 ounces) light brown sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon (3/4 ounce) milk powder
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted
  • 3/4 cup plus a scant 2 tablespoons heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 8 egg yolks
  • 2 prepared crusts
  • Powdered sugar, garnish

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, brown sugar, salt and milk powder. Whisk in the melted butter, then whisk in the heavy cream and vanilla.

3. Gently whisk in the egg yolks, being careful not to add too much air.

4. Divide the filling evenly between the 2 prepared pie shells.

5. Bake the pies, one at a time, for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325 degrees and bake until the filling is slightly jiggly and golden brown (similar to a pecan pie), about 10 minutes. Remove the pies and cool on a rack.

6. Refrigerate the cooled pies until well chilled. The pies are meant to be served cold, and the filling will be gooey. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.

Ham and collard greens

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 smoked ham hock 
  • 5 cups water
  • 2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 bunch collard greens, ribbed, washed, and cut into 1-inch-wide strips

1. Pour the oil into an 8-quart stockpot over medium-high heat and swirl it around so it covers the bottom. Score the ham hock with a small sharp knife, and when the oil begins to shimmer, set it in the pot. Sear the hock all over as best you can and allow it to render some fat, about 6 minutes.

2. Pour the water into the pot; it will hiss and pop for a few seconds. Add the chiles and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 2 hrs., until the stock is deeply flavored and ham falls off the bone.

3. Add a few handfuls of the collards to the pot. The greens will float on the surface, so stir them frequently, submerging them with the spoon, until they have turned a bright green. Continue adding handfuls of collards, stirring and submerging them, until all the greens are in the pot (6 to 10 minutes). Turn the heat to low and simmer very gently for 2 more hours. The greens will be a dark green and completely tender.


 

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