Tom Douglas appreciates good food. When I was a line cook at the Dahlia, staff meals often included burgers from Dick's, fish and chips from Salty's, bratwurst from Bavarian Smoked Meats or dim sum from the International District. A real fan of Asian food and dim sum, Tom's fusion of Asian and Northwest cuisines show up frequently on his restaurants' menus. His version of fried rice and green onion pancakes appeared on one of the Dahlia Lounges' first menu.

"Green onion pancake is a Chinese snack consisting of a non-leavened, salty flatbread infused with oil and minced green onions. Unlike a true pancake, it is made from dough instead of batter, similar to the Indian paratha. It is available in China, Taiwan, and other areas of the world with significant Chinese populations in restaurants and as a street food item, and is also commercially available frozen in plastic packages in Asian supermarkets." Wikipedia, Green onion pancake

During my recent shop at 99 Ranch, I saw a green onion pancake next to the lemon grass tofu. The pancake was the real thing—made from a thin dough, mixed with sliced green onions and wok-fried. Tom's version, from his book, Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchen, is easily made from ingredients usually found in a cook's refrigerator.




Tom Douglas' Green Onion Pancakes

1 large egg
2 tsp. sesame oil
Four 8" flour tortillas
2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds
1/3 cup finely chopped green onions (white and green parts)
1 Tbs. vegetable oil, or as much as needed

In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg with the sesame oil. Brush each tortilla with the egg mixture and then sprinkle two of the tortillas with the sesame seeds and green onions. Place one of the plain tortillas over each of the sprinkled tortillas and sandwich them together, pressing down to seal, forming two whole pancakes.

Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium heat When hot, add a pancake to the pan and cook until lightly browned on both sides, about 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining pancakes, using more oil if needed. The uncooked green pancakes will hold a day in the refrigerator, wrapped well in plastic.

The following Chinese recipe is much more steppy, but as Michael Roberts used to say, "The harder it is, the better it is".

Traditional Green Onion Pancakes (recipe from Cooking.com)

• 1 1/2 cups flour 
• 1/2 cup boiling water
• 2-4 Tbs. cold water 
• 3 tsp. sesame oil
• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• Sesame oil to brush on pancakes
• Salt to sprinkle on pancakes during frying

Place flour in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. With the processor running, pour the boiling water through the feed tube in a steady stream. In 5-10 seconds when the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl, add the cold water. Continue to process dough until it comes together in a rough ball, about 15 seconds. If the dough is sticky, add a little more flour and continue processing for 30 seconds longer.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead dough for 1-2 minutes, until smooth, soft, elastic and no longer sticky, dusting with more flour if necessary. Gather dough into a ball, place in lightly oiled bowl and turn dough ball to coat with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface. Knead only until smooth and no longer sticky, 1-2 minutes. Cut the dough into 3 equal pieces. Roll out one piece into a 10 inch round about 1/8" thick. Evenly brush top with thin film of sesame oil, about 1 tsp. Sprinkle 1/4 tsp. of Kosher salt and chopped green onion evenly over the round. Starting from one side, roll up tightly and pinch the ends to seal in the onions. Anchor one end and wind the long roll around it into a flat spiral coil. Tuck the end under and press the coil with the palm of your hand to flatten slightly. Roll out the coil into a pancake 7" in diameter and about 1/4" thick. Cover with kitchen towel and repeat for remainder of dough.

To fry the pancakes, heat a 10" frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add enough oil to coat the bottom with a 1/8" layer. When the oil is medium hot, add one pancake, cover, and fry, shaking the pan occasionally, until the pancake is golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle pancake with a bit of salt while frying. Using a wide spatula, turn the pancake over (add more oil if the pan is dry). Re-cover and continue to fry, shaking the pan occasionally for 2 more minutes or until second side is golden brown and crisp.

Serve whole or cut into wedges. Serve plain or with plum sauce, soy sauce, or another dipping sauce.


Sesame Dipping Sauce

• 1/4 cup of soy sauce
• 1/4 cup of rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon of sambal paste
• 2 tablespoons of water
• 1 tablespoon of minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon of chopped cilantro
• 1 tablespoon of black sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon of toasted white sesame seeds
• 1 tablespoon of sesame oil
Combine all ingredients in blender and run until well mixed.


Garlic Lime Dipping Sauce

• 1 glove of garlic crushed or minced
• juice of one fresh lime or 1/4 cup of rice vinegar
• 2 tablespoons of sugar
• 2 tablespoons of fish sauce
• 4 tablespoons of water
• 1 fresh hot chili red pepper minced(optional)
• 3 Tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts

Plum Sauce

• 3 T. cornstarch mixed with 3 T. water
• 1 can plums with juice
• ½ fine diced onion
• 2 T. minced fresh ginger
• 1 T. minced garlic
• 1 T. Worcestershire
• 1 T. Coleman’s mustard
• 2 T. mirin or rice wine vinegar
• ½ t. salt
• 1 can mandarin oranges, plus 1 can of juice
• 2 T. tart jam—apricot or marmalade
• 1 c. chicken stock
• 1 T. soy sauce
• 1 tsp. Chinese chili/garlic sauce 

Mix cornstarch and water. Combine remainder of ingredients in food processor.
Bring to boil, simmer 20 minutes. Thicken slightly with cornstarch and water. Simmer 5 more minutes.